We offer genuine handmade wood tables. These tables are very sturdy and made of solid wood, weighing around 150 lbs and upwards of 500 lbs for the larger ones. Our tables offer stunning stability and make for great conversation pieces, guaranteed! The legs and/or bases are all detachable for easy moving and adjustable to compensate for even the most uneven floors. We offer delivery and assembly within the Chicagoland area and throughout the country. Browse the various customization options below for things to consider when designing your custom table.
When designing and building a custom table, there are a number of decisions that need to be made. Click the tabs below to view the six steps that guide you through the table design process. The images help to illustrate each step:
We build our tables down to the inch which means you can specify your exact specs. It is HIGHLY recommended to lay out and measure your space for exact and accurate table dimensions. Using sheets, blankets, cardboard, etc. is very beneficial for a visual representation.
There are standard sizes that allow for the typical number of people, usually 24 inches per person. Therefore, 6 feet sits 3 per side, 8 feet sits 4 per side, etc. The average width of a table is 40-46 inches, giving ample room for those seated at the table. A narrow table would be around 36 inches and a wider table ranges around 48+ inches. To seat two people at the head of the table, 50-60 inches is appropriate. Here is an example of the same table style but in different sizes to give some visual representation.
There are many options for the base of your table. These range from our four-leg design in the corners, to pedestal bases under the table. Take a look at our collection below.
Bases under the table, typically one per side, is what we consider our pedestal design tables. The cross brace connecting them is optional and not needed. Most all designs focus on leg/chair room which means they are pushed in from the heads and thinner in the middle for more functional space from the sides.
Pedestal Size and Scale
The pedestal size is typically determined by the length and stature of a table. Longer, larger tables usually require a scaled up pedestal and vice versa with small tables. See below for examples, from smaller to larger.
Heavy Pedestal Option
This example is the Heavy Anchor. To start, the anchor pedestal itself is larger than normal. We then add our thick top and pull the apron close to the table’s edge. Overall, this creates a heavier/bulkier designed table. This can be applied to most any pedestal styles we offer and be done in the other direction to create a thinner/lighter look.
Pedestal Cracks Vs. No Cracks
Below shows you yet another option for the majority of our pedestals. We can make them with or without cracks. The difference is, the pedestal WITH cracks is a tree log/timber that is sawn into a block and carved to shape. The pedestal WITHOUT cracks, we take the boards we use for the tops and glue them up. Essentially making a block of wood again, but the grain is oriented in roughly the same direction, preventing cracking as the wood expands and contracts. Both are structurally sound options; it just comes down to personal preference. The pedestal WITH cracks can develop more over time. Pedestal styles this can be done in are: the Belly, Anchor, Franklin, and Tuscan (not all pictured).
Round Table Options
Pedestals on round tables usually only require one pedestal in the middle. On many designs you can select a round base at the floor or 4 legs/feet. See below.
Our four-leg tables are with legs in the corners, such as flush with the top, angled, turned, tapered, and square legs. Take a look at the examples.
Dependent on preference and scale, we offer numerous leg sizes. As shown below the leg thickness can impact the visual weight of a table. The sizes can be from anywhere from 3-5 inches. Pictured below is an example of a few of our different leg sizes.
The overall look desired is often influenced by many details such as distressing (if any), edge detail, grooves between planks, top thickness, etc.
Level of Distress
We offer different levels of distress that changes the overall look and feel of a table. The levels range from no distressing to heavy. For a formal design we suggest no distressing, less informal, the distressing can range. As you will see below, adding grooves to a table top can change the look of a table. View our examples below.
*Note: much distressing beyond a medium/heavy will become less practical for a low-maintenance design.
Clean: No distress.
Minimal: Only a few small dings.
Light: Noticeable and more distinct, but still very subtle.
Medium: An increase of markings that are still not considerably noticeable.
Heavy: A good deal of distress while boards remain level with no major gaps.
Rough Sawn: Uneven boards with saw marks.
We offer a few different choices for our table edges. Each bringing their own twist and design aesthetic. The options being clean, natural wavy, light tumbled, heavy tumbled, ogee, and step round over. Take a look below to see what suits you.
*Note: the natural wavy edge is not an option for round tables.
Natural Wavy Edge
Light Tumbled Edge
Clean Top or Grooves
For a cleaner look a flat top is best, no grooves, but for some interest in the top we offer two levels of grooves: regular or deep. See below.
An element that can surprisingly impact the prominence of a table is the thickness of the top. Offering three top thicknesses, the visual weight varies with each. Standard, thick, and extra thick top are the three options. The standard and thick tops are the most common options for tables and benches. The extra thick has limited availability and is only in certain wood species. It is often used without an apron under the top. Typically our bench tops remain standard size unless otherwise specified. Below pictures the three choices as well as table examples.
The cross brace is simply a design aesthetic. Whether or not there is a cross brace does not affect the integrity of the table’s structure. Some customers like to personalize their tables and thus engrave their cross brace. Below gives examples of the options.
Wood species and stain color essentially come hand in hand. Both impact one another and are dependent on the end goal for a table: dark, light, formal, informal, wood grain variation, no variation, etc. Each wood species we use has its tendencies to what stain color look and work best.
*We strictly stick with the harder species for durability purposes. Continue on to see what works.
This wood species is easily recognized for its natural beauty and character. Walnut is often left untouched for good reason. It needs no enhancement due to its known natural variation and rich color. We almost never add color to walnut, but simply coat it with a clear top coat and sealer. Slabs are a popular look, thus almost all our slab work is in walnut.
Known for its hardness, tighter grain, and variation in color, hickory works well with brown tones. The examples below show the colors standard to hickory, but they are not required.
Quarter Sawn White and Red Oak
With a more consistent grain pattern, quarter sawn red and white are a fit for a few different styles. These grains tend to be cleaner and have an almost Morse code pattern. Unlike traditional flat sawn oaks, quarter sawn is known for uniformity and stability. Quarter sawn red oak gives off a red tint while quarter sawn white oak, a golden. What differentiates the two is quarter sawn white oak has more ray flake (a figuring in the wood grain that can be selected for tables) and is great for outdoor use.
Quarter Sawn Red Oak
Quarter Sawn White Oak
This wood species works best with black, gray, and cool tones. Due to its light and pale natural state, the wood does not influence the stain color as much. A large, looser grain is yet another characteristic of ash left for buyers choice. The pictures below show our standard stains.
Having almost no grain texture, but good figuring, maple gives a clean, smooth look. This wood species tends to show blemishes more, however, is just as hard as the others. Hard maple works well with pale and brown tones. Take a look at our few examples below.
Imported from Europe, our stain and finish, we can confidently say, is the best on the market. Known for its durability in fighting water and heat marks, household chemicals, and simple day to day use, it matches well with our choice of hardwoods. We offer a large variety of stain colors ranging from whitewash to black. Having no impact on quality or durability, we offer a satin or flat finish. See below to get an idea of our stain color choices as well as sheen.
We offer three different kinds of leaves: perimeter, drop-in, and standard extensions. Each offer different solutions depending on the desired look and style. The three variations are broken down as sizing and pricing will vary. Typically leaf and table sizes are based on allowing 24 inches per person.
*Prices listed are for standard top thickness and does not include price increase for thick or extra thick tops.
Standard Leaf – 12″
$640 for 2
For a pedestal base table, two leaves adds seating for 1 person per side.
Medium Leaf – 18″
$700 for 2
For a pedestal base table, two leaves will add enough seating space for 2-4 additional people depending on the table size to start.
Large Leaf – 24″
$760 for 2
For a pedestal base table, two leaves add seating for an additional 4 people.
*If wanting to add a leaf to a standard 4-leg table, the best solution is to add 1-24″ leaf to one end, allowing enough space to add 2 people while preventing the need to maneuver around table legs.
This is a new design we’ve created to allow round tables to be expanded while maintaining their shape. Additional seating will vary depending on leaf sizes. Pricing will depend on leaf size, wood species, and a few other details. *Inquire for specific pricing.
Standard to your typical drop-in leaf, however, we usually only utilize this design to be used for round tables. Keep in mind that there will always be a seam with or without the leaves. Additional seating will vary depending on leaf size. Price is also subject to change with leaf size, wood species, etc. *Inquire for specific pricing.
Installation How To
Most furniture available today is made from various types of materials or thin strips of wood glued together, but rarely from such large solid wood planks as our tables. They offer great appeal and character, but are more susceptible to moisture and temperature changes. In order to prevent damage we strongly suggest keeping your humidity level at the ideal of 50% year round. Some variance should not create problems, but to maintain a “safe” variance stay within 40%-60% humidity. Avoid rapid changes in the humidity levels as wood is far more likely to crack in this instance. Our tables are specifically built to compensate for some fluctuations, but there is a limit. Minor cracks on ends could develop in dry environments and the legs or bases might have to be re-tightened. A minimal amount is perfectly normal. So, if you notice some changes, it’s just your table adjusting to its ever-changing environment.
* A credit card is required to be on file when the order is placed, but will not be charged unless specified upon delivery – Subject to 3% processing fee.
© 2021 Rustic Elements Furniture. All rights reserved. Serving the Chicagoland area and shipping nationwide from New York to Texas to California.